Not only does December bring the official start of winter, the holiday season, and of course an overindulgence in great food, it also brings Maine sea urchins. We look forward to this golden, creamy delicacy with eager anticipation starting, oh say, in August? So after shopping for a huge salmon at our local fish market, we picked up a dozen or so fresh sea urchins still nestled in their green, spiny shells. As I poached the salmon, the other gourmaniac opened the sea urchin shells using a pair of stout kitchen scissors. She plated them and splashed some fresh squeezed lemon juice all over. There was a mad scramble at the kitchen island as kids and we scooped up the delicate and briny uni.